Banff offers so many outfitters with so many activitities we can only begin to do it justice. Exploring the natural beauty of the region and viewing the abundant wildlife is all part of the Banff experience. Just a few of the ways to do that: Go dogsledding (Howling Dog Tours, 678-9588) or ice fishing (Banff Fishing Unlimited, 762-4936); take a sleigh ride (Warner Guiding and Outfitting, 762-4551); or an introductory course in ice climbing or ski mountaineering (Yamnuska; 678-4164).

The Johnston Canyon Icewalk (White Mountain Adventures, 678-4099) guides share many interesting things about the canyon's history, wildlife and habitat. At the end of the canyon, you might see ice climbers work their way up the frozen waterfall. This walk is fairly strenuous and should be taken only by those who are fit and agile.

One of the most famous heli-skiing companies, Canadian Mountain Holidays, is headquartered here (762-7100). RK Heli-Ski also does day heli-ski trips from Banff (762-3771). Book an adventure for helicopter sightseeing with Alpine Helicopters (678-4802) to view the magnificent mountain peaks. On a clear day, take the Sulphur Mountain Gondola (762-2523; above) for a beautiful vista of the Bow Valley.

Visit the Douglas Fir Resort & Chalets (762-5591) and enjoy their two giant indoor waterslides, kiddy pool, hot tub, steam room, fitness room, arcade and pool tables (see Lodging). Cost is C$8 per person for non-guests; kids 3 and younger are free.

The Banff Upper Hot Springs (762-1515; right) is a wonderful way to wind down after a day on the slopes. Natural hot mineral waters fill a huge outdoor pool, and you’re surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. Cost is C$7.50 for adults, C$6.50 for children and seniors. Winter hours are 10 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m. A restaurant and gift shop are on site. There’s also the full-service Pleiades Massage & Spa (760-2500 for spa reservations).

The Culture Walk Banff Trail Guide map describes more than a dozen art galleries, museums and cultural organizations in town, most within a few blocks walk of each other. Worth seeking out are Canada House Gallery, The Quest Gallery and About Canada. Also look for Very Canada with merchandise that reflects Canada’s culture and history.

Museums of note: Banff Park Museum for the story of early tourism and wildlife management, and a taxidermy collection of animals indigenous to the Park; Cave & Basin National Historic Site, where the hot springs were first discovered; Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, for historic and contemporary art and historic homes; and the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum, for Plains Indians history.

In the townsite, shopping is almost an athletic activity, with hundreds of shops lining Banff Avenue and its side streets. Many shops are clustered in little malls, but most are street level. Look for the Hudson’s Bay Company, a department store famed for its legendary blankets and Canada’s oldest company, founded in 1670; and Roots Canada, for fine leather-and-cloth backpacks, handbags, Olympic label items and casual clothing.

For non-kitschy Canadian souvenirs: Orca Canada or Great Northern Trading Company (clothing, jewelry, knickknacks), Rocks and Gems (inexpensive jewelry made from native Canadian gemstones), and A Taste of the Rockies (smoked salmon, jams and honeys). Some of the best chocolates this side of the Atlantic can be found at Bernard Callebaut in the Harmony Lane Mall near the Bank of Montreal.

The Fairmont Banff Springs also has many specialty and boutique shops, featuring designer jewelry, toys and clothing. Our favorite in the hotel is The Canadian Pacific Store, with items that reflect the bygone elegance of luxury train travel.